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Archive for September, 2009

Winterizing Your Lawn

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

The term “winterize” when used in warm-season grass lawn care is simply stated as slow down growth and beef up plant levels of the nutrient potassium (K). This is an attempt to toughen plant tissues for the winter freezes much as you would add antifreeze to your car’s radiator.

Research has shown that higher levels of plant K enhance tolerance to a broad range of environmental stresses, including cold damage. Therefore, a good strategy is to maintain high levels of soil K throughout the growing season. When soil test levels of K have reached a high level, maintain that by applying about 2/3 part of K2O fertilizer for every one part of nitrogen (N) supplied. This is not an exact calculation but good rule of thumb. The third analysis number on the bag of fertilizer is the percent by weight of potassium K2O equivalent also called “potash.”  

You can’t just go by the term WINTERIZER on the fertilizer bag because many winterizer formulations sold in Louisiana are for cool-season grasses in the northern states. So, as usual, it’s “buyer beware.”  An informed consumer will be looking for a southern type winterizer for theIr warm-season grasses to avoid the plant-softening effect of using a northern, high-N formulation.

Phosphorus (P), the middle number (as percent P2O5) on a fertilizer bag analysis, does not usually come into concern here as long as soil levels are not very low. Extra fall P would just promote winter weed seed germination. An exception is if you will be overseeding for winter color; then you may apply P for better ryegrass seedling development.

With adequate K available all season, special winterizing would be unnecessary, and the turf would be in the best shape to handle environmental and pest problems all season long. Just make sure your last application of N is lower (maybe half rate or less) when applied after late summer and before mid-fall. After mid-fall, do not apply N to a warm-season lawn.

For those with a less-than-ideal lawn fertility program, here are some end-of-season tips:

(1) Reduce N fertilizing to 1/3 normal application or less. If you have not gotten a lawn by September, you should not try to continue to grow it out in fall and risk extra winterkill. Reducing N fertility slows growth, which allows the grass to toughen and store more carbohydrate in reserve for spring green-up. Lower fall N also reduces brown patch (large patch) disease, which is so prevalent in fall.

(2) Finish the growing season with a fertilizer high in potassium. If not using a southern winterizing blend or warm-season grass winterizing blend, at least choose an even ratio analysis like 13-13-13 to avoid high N. If applying only K2O to avoid extra fall N, use 1 to 2 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. of muriate of potash (0-0-60). This supplies a 60% K2O or up to 1.2 lb. K2O/1,000 sq.ft.

(3) Keep up adequate moisture in the fall. We often want to forget lawn care by this time. Fall in Louisiana will be dry without tropical depressions, and turf still needs to store food now for the long winter dormancy.

(4) Keep an eye out for yellowing areas that would indicate brown patch disease. Treat with a “patch-type” fungicide as needed. Remember, if these areas die off in the fall, they will still be dead next spring.

(5) Always apply granular materials on dry foliage. This reduces the salt burn potential of an application. They are usually watered in if rain is not forthcoming.

One last warning – too much of a good thing is often bad. Excessively high rate of K fertilizer may lead to foliage burn (salt burn) or can lead to competitive inhibition of other soil-nutrient uptake. This is especially known to affect magnesium (Mg) uptake, which can appear as a light green lawn color.

Lawn and Garden ready for Winter

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Move terra-cotta and ceramic containers to a protected location like a garden shed or garage. Clean clay pots to remove the excess salt or algae build-up and repair damaged ones.
Bring tender plants, such as tropicals and containerized plants, inside for overwintering. Replant in pots if necessary and place them in a garage, heated garden shed or indoor room. Take cuttings of annuals, such as coleus, and begin propagating new plants for next season.

Dig and store tender summer- and fall-flowering bulbs, such as dahlias. Plant spring-flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. Plant bulbs with their roots down. If the bulb has a sprout at the top, it can still be planted.
Avoid heavy pruning of trees and shrubs going into the winter months, but do prune away broken branches. Touch up mulch at the base of plants once temperatures are consistently cold.

In the perennial border, touch up mulch around plants for added winter protection. A layer of mulch about two to four inches deep is ideal. Unless you prefer otherwise, it is fine to leave foliage that has died back as it will help provide additional protection at the crown of plants. Leave ornamental grasses intact without cutting them back to discourage new growth during warm spells and encourage birds to visit.
Extend the harvest of cool season veggies like lettuce and spinach by constructing a cold frame around them.
Remove spent plants from the vegetable garden and add them to the compost pile. Discard diseased plants in the trash. Turn over the soil with a garden fork (or till) to expose underground pests to cold temperatures. Caution: don’t work soil when it’s wet! Planting a cover crop can help reduce soil erosion, capture nutrients, reduce weeds and enrich the soil for spring.

Depending on where you live, there are different methods to winterizing roses. A good rule of thumb is to remove the foliage from on and around the base of rose plants; this keeps foliar diseases from overwintering and coming back next growing season. Prune away branches that show signs of decay or insect infestation; also cut long stems that can whip around in the wind. Throw away diseased foliage and cut branches in the trash, instead of composting it. Spray roses and the soil immediately surrounding them with a fungicide to protect plants through winter and hopefully keep disease from overwintering. A generous layer of mulch, topsoil or compost heaped around the graft union can also help protect it against the cold.
Winterize the compost bin by covering it with a tarp; this will help to keep the composting process going through the cold season. Occasionally soak the pile with water to keep it moist. Add an insulation of leaves or straw on the top and the sides of the pile.

Winterizing Your Lawn

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

Fall is your lawn’s favorite time of the year. Take care of it properly during this time to ensure that your lawn looks its best next spring and summer. Start by raking up any leaves and other debris. Fallen leaves can smother your lawn as they become wet and decompose. Removing leaves from your lawn will also help prevent disease problems come spring. If there are any bare spots in your lawn, re-seed now.

What you need:
Lawn mower
Rake
Nitrogen based fertilizer

Fertilizing your lawn before the onset of winter is very important. Nitrogen promotes healthy root growth and allows your lawn to store food for the winter. Fertilize your lawn twice during the fall. Around Labor Day, apply 3/4 of a pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Fertilize again (same amount) after your last mowing for the season. This second feeding is usually done around mid-November in most parts of the U.S.

Once the grass has stopped growing for the year, give it one last mowing … to about an inch or two high. Keep the grass short to prevent it from matting down as winter approaches.

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